vrijdag 23 september 2011

Haka?

Zomer schijnt zijn laatste stralen.  Wie er nog niet genoeg van heeft en dat tikkeltje extra wil, hoeft maar naar Nieuw-Zeeland te gaan, waar  momenteel voor de rugby wereldbeker gestreden wordt (voor sommigen onder jullie is dit waarschijnlijk ook al nieuws aangezien Rugby niet echt leeft in België). Los van de ontegenspreekbare sfeer die er op dergelijke sport evenementen heerst wil ik het graag hebben over iets dat het gastland zo bijzonder maakt. Laat me toe jullie in gedachten even mee te nemen: voor ons staan 15 gehurkte, stoere mannen met gekruiste armen op de borst. Bij een sein van de leider beginnen de ruige kerels op hun benen te slaan en maken ze een aantal fascinerende bewegingen met hun lichaam. Hun gezicht staat tijdens deze ‘dans’ vol emotie en is gekronkeld en verwrongen in de meest kwade blikken. De toeschouwers van dit spektakel worden wild en de tegenpartij, waarvoor het wordt uitgevoerd, is tot stilzwijgen gedwongen en met verbazing geslagen. De oppositie staat hulpeloos. Ze weten niet hoe ze hierop moeten reageren.

Het zojuist beschreven scenario doet zich voor tijdens elke rugbymatch waarin de All Blacks, de nationale Nieuw-Zeelandse rugbyploeg, meespelen. Deze dans staat bekend als de Haka, die een essentieel deel geworden is van elke sportgelegenheid van de All Blacks, sinds ‘the originals’ hem in 1905 voor het eerst opvoerden. Hij dient als een expressie van culturele identiteit, entertainment spektakel en als intimidatie van de oppositie. Haka is een erfenis van de Maori, de inheemse bevolking van Nieuw-Zeeland die 15 procent van de populatie representeert.
           Haka wordt vaak in verband gebracht met een oorlogsdans, maar dit is een misconceptie. Haka wordt over het algemeen vertaald als ‘actielied’ maar soms ook als ‘houdingsdans’. Haka is de algemene term voor alle types van ceremoniële performance en dans van de Maori die beweging vereisen. Een meer gepassioneerde definitie is die van Alan Armstrong: ‘De haka is een compositie gespeeld door vele instrumenten. Handen, voeten, lichaam, stem, tong en ogen spelen samen om ontelbaar veel gevoelens uit te drukken, onder andere exultatie en welkom. Het is gedisciplineerd en toch emotioneel.’
De haka bestaat uit zowel spirituele als fysieke aspecten. De spirituele aspecten worden gelinkt aan verschillende culturele concepten van de Maori, inclusief de concepten van ihi (autoriteit, psychische kracht), wehi (respect, bewonderingswaardigheid) en wana (opjaging, angst, enthousiasme). Het tonen van ihi wordt als een teken van prestatie en excellentie gezien in een performance. Ihi is dus een psychische kracht die een emotionele reactie oproept bij het publiek. Wehi is een reactie op de kracht van de performance, en wana is de aura die ontstaat tijdens een performance en die zowel de performers als het publiek overweldigt. Iets vergelijkbaars doet zich vandaag in onze Westerse cultuur voor tijdens bijvoorbeeld popconcerten. 
De All Blacks doen niet zomaar ‘de haka’, maar een specifieke haka, namelijk de Ka Mate die elementen vertoont van de peruperu haka en van de veelzijdige haka’s, zoals de ngeri. De Ka Mate is ontstaan in 1820 toen, volgens de legende, een beroemde hoofdman van de Ngati Toa stam, Te Rauparaha, achtervolgd werd door zijn vijanden, en toevlucht zocht in het dorpje van het stamhoofd Te Wharerangi. Te Rauparaha kreeg daar schuilplaats in een put, en vervolgens ging de vrouw van Te Wharerangi zitten op de ingang van deze put, niet enkel om het stamhoofd te verbergen, maar ook om de gezangen die werden gemaakt door zijn achtervolgers te neutraliseren. Hier moet opgemerkt worden dat in de Maori cultuur, de genitaliën van een vrouw niet enkel gezangen konden neutraliseren, maar dat ze ook veel kracht kenden. Te Rauparaha, die de fluctuatie van zijn lot hoort, mompelt bijgevolg de volgende woorden ‘aha ha. Ka Mate, ka mate. Ka ora, ka ora. Ka mate, ka mate’ of ‘ik sterf, ik sterf, ik leef ik leef, ik sterf ik sterf’. Als hij daarna zijn achtervolgers hoort weggaan zegt hij ‘ka ora, ka ora. Tenei te tangata puhurupuhuru nana nei i tiki mai whakawhiti te ra’ of ‘ik leef, ik leef. Want dit is de behaarde man, die de zon is gaan halen en ervoor heeft gezorgd dat ze weer scheen’. Als hij dan de eerste twee stappen buiten de put zet, zegt hij ‘hupane, kaupane’ of ‘spring op het terras’ en als hij dan veilig staat roept hij ‘whiti te ra’ of ‘de zon schijnt’. Er zijn echter vele andere mythen gelinkt aan de Ka Mate, maar deze worden gezien als een pakeha (blanke mens) poging om de Maori cultuur aan te passen aan hun eigen interesses en geloofsovertuigingen. Het feit dat er gerefereerd wordt aan vrouwelijke genitaliën (de harige man) en dat er bescherming is van mannen door vrouwen is een veel voorkomend thema bij de Maori, dat meestal genegeerd wordt door vele pakeha. Een bron van conflict echter, is het feit dat het echte verhaal achter de Ka Mate haka slechts door weinig mensen, inclusief de Nieuw-Zeelanders, gekend is, en als ze het al kennen wordt het door de meerderheid niet geaccepteerd. Het wordt niet geweigerd omdat het niet legitiem is, maar omdat het de blanke mannelijke macht bedreigt.
            Het is duidelijk dat de Ka Mate een soort van rituele dans is. Onafhankelijk van de functie van een haka, staan de woorden en de boodschap die ze bevatten centraal. Toch blijft het lichaam uitermate belangrijk, want dit is het instrument van verzending. Eén van de belangrijkste karakteristieken blijft dat elk deel van het lichaam gebruikt wordt om de woorden te benadrukken. De kunst van de haka performance is pas effectief als het hele lichaam een boodschap overdraagt. In de Haka Ka Mate worden vele bewegingen gebruikt waarvan de meest belangrijke nu besproken worden.
Vooreerst is het gebruik van de handen heel significant bij elke performance van de Maori. De primaire actie is de wiri, het schudden of doen beven van de handen. De tweede belangrijke beweging is het gebruik van voeten en benen, waarvan de meest bekende beweging het stampen of takahi is, omdat zo het ritme gehouden wordt. Ook belangrijk is de beweging waarbij de voeten simultaan worden opgetrokken tot achter het achterste, wat bekend staat als de pepeke en de whakapepeke, een fundamentele beweging voor de peruperu. Centraal staat eveneens de aroarowhaki, het schudden van de heupen en dijen. De beweging mireirei, als de torso in openlijk verzet naar voren wordt geschoven, komt eveneens veel voor in de meeste Haka Ka Mate. Cruciaal is echter het gezicht en de verschillende expressies die erop verschijnen. Bijvoorbeeld als het hele gezicht verwrongen is in een grijns wordt dit whakapi genoemd. De ogen worden gebruikt om belangrijke woorden te benadrukken, want ogen kunnen zeggen wat het lichaam niet kan meegeven. Voor de Maori zijn de ogen de poort tot de ziel. Een centrale rol is ook weggelegd voor de tong. Die moet op verschillende momenten zichtbaar zijn tijdens de haka Ka Mate. Ze wordt vooruit geduwd als symbool van de penis van de performer, en van zijn mannelijkheid of viriliteit. De term hiervoor is whatero of whetero en als dit meermaals gebeurt wheterotero of whaterotero. Dit benadrukt eveneens de rol van de man in de maori samenleving als woordvoerder voor de iwi (stam) of hapu (sub-stam).  De tong wordt dus niet getoond door vrouwen als deze een haka uitvoeren. De tong is eveneens noodzakelijk voor spraak en zang, en wijst dus voor een groot deel ook op de sterk orale traditie van de Maori.[1]
Tegenwoordig wordt de haka ervaren als een expressie van de Nieuw-Zeelandse cultuur en identiteit. De hedendaagse haka neemt echter een unieke plaats in omdat het, in tegenstelling tot de meeste inheemse dansen, een brede waaier van performatieve contexten kent, vooral sinds de Maori Renaissance in de jaren 60. Deze renaissance had een grote invloed op de manier waarop over samenleving en cultuur gediscussieerd werd in Nieuw-Zeeland. Marketing en promotie van de haka dragen dus bij tot het officieel staatsbeleid waarbij gestreefd wordt naar ‘biculturalisme’. Zo bestaat er bijvoorbeeld het Aotearoa (Nieuw-Zeeland in het Maori) Traditional Maori Performing Arts Festival, een nationale kapa haka (dansploeg) wedstrijd die elke twee jaar plaatsvindt. Deze wedstrijd werd mede opgericht om de cultuur te promoveren en heeft de standaard van haka’s de hoogte in gejaagd. Verder kunnen haka’s bijgewoond worden in toeristische plaatsen in Nieuw-Zeeland, en vroeger bestond er in Nieuw-Zeeland zelfs iets als een school haka. Verder kan men op het internet ontelbare bronnen raadplegen en filmpjes bekijken waarin haka’s worden opgevoerd.  Het meest in het oog springende domein, voor een Westerling, is ongetwijfeld rugby. Om hun Haka Ka Mate te perfectioneren hebben de All Blacks intens samengewerkt met Maori culturele leiders om de kracht en de wana van de haka te kunnen overbrengen.
Toch zijn hier enkele minpunten aan verbonden. Zo is de haka vandaag een ‘pick en mix’ geworden van wat televisiekijkers en toeristen willen. Dit draagt ongetwijfeld bij tot een stereotiep beeld. Met nieuwe globale technologieën worden deze beelden dan weer globaal verspreid. Als bijgevolg aan toeristen in Nieuw-Zeeland gevraagd wordt de maori-cultuur te beschrijven, gebruiken ze meestal stereotiepe termen zoals ‘gezichtstatoegaes’, ‘haka’, ‘concert en dans’, ‘tribale krijgers’, ‘groot/sterk’, ‘tongen die uitsteken’ en ‘vriendelijk volk’. Internetbronnen zijn dikwijls misleidend aangezien het meestal over informele discussies gaat. Bovendien zijn er veel websites die over de haka spreken maar die bijvoorbeeld japans van oorsprong zijn, wat ver verwijderd is van de Maori cultuur. En vooral wat betreft rugby blijft het niet meer bij een onschuldige expressie van cultuur, maar wordt het ook een intimiderende projectie van de All Blacks brand. Hierbij denken we bv. aan de Adidas campagne. Bijgevolg wordt soms gezegd dat de Maori cultuur geëxploiteerd wordt. Zelfs de Spice Girls voerden de Haka Ka Mate eens op tijdens een show in Bali, waardoor ze enkele Maori stamhoofden beledigden, onder andere omdat deze haka weggelegd is voor mannen. Exploitatie gebeurt niet enkel doordat mensen het verkeerd opvoeren, maar ook door op nostalgische wijze een bepaalde versie van het verleden van Nieuw-Zeeland te vervalsen. Er zijn zelfs enkele rechtszaken geweest waarbij bijvoorbeeld de vraag van het eigenaarschap van de haka naar voren kwam. Echter, stereotiepen zijn subjectief en zijn enkel stereotiepen geworden, omdat de Maori cultuur voor een deel ook gedecontextualiseerd geworden is.
Bovenal is de Haka Ka Mate een fascinerend voorbeeld van performing art, waarin echt het hele lichaam gebruikt wordt om een boodschap over te brengen, en waar er veel symboliek in verweven zit. Vergeet dus de Maori niet als er nog eens een opvoering is van de All Blacks’ Haka Ka Mate. Tegenwoordig voeren ook de eilandnaties Samoa, Fiji en Tonga hun eigen versie op. Toch blijft het iets eigen aan de lokale cultuur, want Samoa pakt uit met de Manu, de mannen uit Fiji zijn fier op hun Cibi en de versie van Tonga staat bekend als de Kailao. [2]
                  De All Blacks in de openingwedstrijd van de Wereldbeker Rugby 2011
Je kan de All Blacks in actie zien tijdens de wereldbeker rugby,  morgen al wanneer ze tegen Frankrijk hun wedstrijd spelen. Ik was nooit een grote rugbyfan maar door onder andere de haka, de sfeer en de liefde die de mannen ervoor uitstralen ben ik uitgegroeid tot een echte supporter. Het is zo complexloos lijkt het mij, en ik ben dan ook verrassend fier op mijn rugbytruitje van de Springboks.[3] Wanneer je een match bekijkt of als je er bij bent in Nieuw-Zeeland zal de wana ongetwijfeld een overweldigend indruk maken. Tenslotte, en terecht ook: ‘Nieuw-Zeelanders (Maori én pakeha) houden van hun haka!’ en hij mag er zeker zijn. Ik kijk al uit naar de match en in zekere zin heeft Nieuw-Zeeland al gewonnen!
Pac

ific
Bibliografie
MURRAY, D., (2000). “Haka Fracas? The Dialectics of Identity Discussions of a Contemporary Maori Dance” in The Australian Journal of Anthropology, 11, (2000), 3, pp. 347-357.
McINTOSH, A. J., “Tourists’ appreciation of Maori Culture in New Zealand” in Tourism Management, 25, (2002), pp. 1-15.
..., “Haka has opponents on the back foot from the start THE RITUAL” in The Sunday Herald, July 10 2005, ...
JACKSON, S., & HOKOWHITU, B., “Sport, Tribes, and Technology: The New Zealand all Blacks Haka and the Politics of Identity” in Journal of Sport and Social Issues, 26, (2002), 2, pp. 125-139.
MATTHEWS, N., “The Physicality of Maori Message Transmission” in Junctures, 3, (2004), ..., pp. 9-18.
KARETU, T,.  Haka! The Dance of a Noble People. Auckland: Reed, 1993.
SULLIVAN, R., “Ka Mate Ka Ora” in A New Zealand journal of poetry and poetics, 1, (2005), ...,pp. 1-10.


[2] http://news.bbc.co.uk/sportacademy/hi/sa/rugby_union/features/newsid_3129000/3129928.stm
[3] Zuid Afrika heeft ook zijn charmes wanneer het op rugby aankomt bekijk maar de film Invictus (2009). Zeker een aanrader ;)

vrijdag 19 augustus 2011

If The Shoe Fits*

“A pair of shoes can change your life just ask Cinderella” (anonymous). I have no idea who came up with this saying but he/she (probably) might be on to something. Personally, I have always been of the opinion that a shoe is the key to perfecting your outfit, provided you choose them to match the occasion (do not go to a theme park in high heels). After all, whether you are wearing a dress or a pair of jeans it has been proven that a high heel has the strange ability to make the derrière look perkier as well as encourage a butt-emphasizing posture.[1] I need not say more than quote Khloé Kardashian: “Whoever invented high heels is a genius. What they do for my legs, my calves, how they lift my booty—I’m obsessed! I could make a house out of my shoes and live there happily.”[2] Let me walk you through.
                There are a few basics I would not be able to miss in my shoe cupboard. Firstly, there are the ‘takkies’. Those of you who speak some South African English will know what I am talking about, if you do not know what they are remember the word because it might be a quiz question some day. I am talking about the South African word for trainers or gym shoes. These can range from anything to everything and needless to say they have managed to carve a niche for themselves in our popular culture. For instance, the Nike Air Force One is still one of the all time favourites as countless rappers came to fame with this shoe keeping them on their feet. I am also talking about the fact that rappers love their Nikes or special Adidas editions. After all, Kanye West was not the first to have designed his own pair of Nikes, Yeezies, for the market.
Left Kanye West’s Yeezies and right the Nike Air Force One (imagine this shoe in all colours)
Another striking example is the collaboration between Adidas and Missy Elliot for the Respect M.E. line. Justin Bieber seems to be breathing new life into this trend. Not to mention the fad a basic Nike or Adidas shoe (e.g. Adidas superstars) has the ability to have (It was really popular when I was in high school). Just remember these shoes still are very much coveted and respected. It is also worked in the hand with great marketing campaigns featuring the most popular celebrities of that moment. Take for example the viral ad Nike made with Taylor Momsen (Jenny in Gossip Girl).
Missy Elliot with a pair of Respect M.E. shoes by Adidas and Justin Bieber shows off his Nikes
The immensely popular Nike Cortez (left) and Nike Terminator (right)


Adidas superstars

More recently, for the new Reebok campaign the company has snagged fellow Gossip Girl star, Leighton Meester (Blair in Gossip Girl). I can only imagine that their campaign will have the desired effect thanks to her it-girl status, her acclaimed fashion sense and the worldwide success of the television show, even though I have never seen any of the girls in Gossip Girl walking around in trainers.
Leighton Meester rocks her Reeboks in the adverts
Another shoe is still essential in this category and that is the Chuck Taylor All-Stars which were originally derived from a basketball shoe. These shoes are omnipresent in the streets and I think most people have a pair in their closets. Not to mention that all celebrities have probably worn them at one point or another. What is also great about them is that there are so many options: thin sole, thicker sole, double tongue, hi-top, lo-top etc.

The Glee cast stylish in their All Stars, as is Rachel Bilson
In short, these brands have become symbols of edginess and they have managed to create, each in their own way, a cult status. Nevertheless, these brands are still associated with sports too and if you are buying a pair of real running shoes you are likely to make a choice between these brands due to their overall presence. Takkies today are a far cry from the sporty image they once had because if you are going for a preppy, relaxed and still trendy streetwear look they are indispensable.
My next must-have and something I personally love is the ballerina or ballet flat. An interesting fact I found on Wikipedia is that the ballet flat has been around since the 17th century and they were then worn by men as well as women. It is only since 1957 that they have been undergoing the classical trend of coming in and out of fashion thanks to icon Audrey Hepburn who wore them with skinny jeans in the film Funny Face (1957). The great thing is that you can spice up up almost any outfit with a stylish pair of ballet flats. After all, they not only come in great patterns, designs and colours but they also come at democratic prices. I bought a pair I truly love for only 10 euro. That pair probably does not have a life span of over two seasons, but I do not count on them to last for ages either. If you are looking for that extra something I suggest you try designers like Steve Madden, Marc Jacobs and if you are a classic girl (and money is not an issue) the Chloé flower flat is a shoe-in. The fact that ballet flats can be semi-casual, dressy and that you can wear them with a range of outfits and look elegant (apri’s, leggings, short skirts or dresses, shorts and jeans) makes them convenient and extremely popular with girls of all ages, as are sandals and flat boots.

Jimmy Choo star ballerina flats and Chloé’s Chain Flower ballerina

Examples of Steve Madden ballerina’s
Talking about flat boots I feel it necessary to mention the Ugg. I can’t say I have always been a fan but since the release of Ugg Baily Button they have grown on me. Moreover, it becomes increasingly impossible to deny that they are not comfy (especially in winter) and that celebrities love them actually advertising the brand willingly which has a huge impact on their sales. Take a wintery day in New York (last few years) and I do not think you could have strolled around in the streets there without seeing at least one pair. Nevertheless, I am still of the opinion that it is not ok to wear them with everything or that you can put a shoe like that on in the summer.
If you are looking for instant glamour, in short that Cinderella feeling, a pair of high heels is the way to go.Not to mention that for more average girls in the length department they are an instant boost. When it comes to two pairs you should definitely have it is a pair of nude pumps as it is instant classiness, it matches so many things.

An example of the timelessly elegant nude pump
 It is the pump that has, in the last few years (or maybe it is because I am a bit older now myself) that has become something that we can no longer dissociate from popular culture. Sex and the City and a movie like In Her Shoes made the high heel a symbol of status and ultimate, confident womanhood once again. After all, just read the shoe quote of Rose Feller (Toni Collete’s character in the movie): I get something out of them! When I feel bad I like to treat myself. Clothes never look any good... food just makes me fatter... shoes always fit. Especially Jimmy Choo’s designs have become a desirable item thanks to Sex and the City. As for other famous designers, I believe, Louboutins (the shoes with the red sole) are the epitome of a great high heel and many a Hollywood movie and movie star encourage this prominence. A red carpet event is not complete when one or several of the celebrities are not wearing the tell-tale red soled, regally elegant Louboutins. 
Celebs love their Louboutins
Even Barbie received a pair, and a complete Christian Louboutin makeover, for her 50th birthday.
Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Louboutin are currently wrapped in a legal battle after Christian Louboutin asked that YSL to stop producing red-soled shoes as it is his trademark. Last week the judge ruled that YSL could still produce their red-soled shoes and Louboutin replied that he was still going to ‘fight like hell’.[3] Nevertheless, to me there is only one red-soled shoe and that’s a Louboutin and that is the shoe I picture myself getting married in. It is the Cinderella’s glass slipper of the 21st century.

Our modern day glass slippers


When it comes to shoes I weigh my options and when I see them and I fall in love, and I will not go into debt if I buy them, and I am not hurting anybody (the last two things are definitely not worth it) I do not hesitate because maybe Cinderella had it right: “all it takes is the right pair of shoes”. To me the ‘shoe’ in all its wonderful variations has received the status of iconic element in our contemporary popular culture and if the shoe fits it might just be a shoe-in ;)







* this is in theory a girly article so if you are a boy I’m happy you are reading my blog and my next article is more boy friendly, but who knows you might look at shoes differently if you read this J
[1] http://ezinearticles.com/?How-To-Get-A-Bigger-Buttocks-Fast---4-Quick-Ways-To-Make-Your-Booty-Pop&id=6264695
[2] http://www.shape.com/lifestyle/khlo%C3%A9-kardashian-on-lamar-odom-kids-and-more?slide=33660
[3] http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2011/04/20/christian-louboutin-sues-yves-saint-laurent-for-red-sole-shoes


woensdag 3 augustus 2011

I Believe This Calls For A Proper Introduction!


Panic at the Disco! songs happen to be my soundtrack for just about anything I do, including my attempt to write this article (¯Ready To Go ¯). A good friend introduced them to me in the summer of 2006 and I am eternally grateful J. At that time I was already a year behind since they released their debut album, A Fever You Can’t Sweat Out, on September 27, 2005.
                Let me start with some introductions. Originally it was Ryan Ross and Spencer Smith who began playing together and started their music career as an amateur Blink 182 cover band. This was all happening in the self proclaimed entertainment capital of the world, Las Vegas. Popular culture has made it this ethereal place tucked away in a desert with ‘The Strip’ as a thirst quenching oasis. It was not long before fellow Las Vegas citizens Brent Wilson and Brendon Urie (who has made many a teen’s heart beat just that bit faster <3 ) joined the group. Nevertheless, it was not this town of glamour and entertainment that motivated them. On the contrary, they felt the Las Vegas music scene had become repetitive and was in need of new sounds. This is a reason they felt the need to bring something new. They soon came up with their tongue in cheek name ‘Panic! At The Disco’ inspired by the song Panic by Name Taken. Their rise to fame was like a fresh breeze. When Pete Wentz, bassist of Fall Out Boy, listened to a link P!ATD had sent him he promptly flew to Las Vegas to hear them play. Even though he had only heard them in a garage he did not hesitate to sign them and the rest is history.
Their first album is still a fever I can’t seem to sweat out ;) Firstly, there were the long song names that so refreshingly had no literal meaning, such as ¯I constantly thank god for Esteban¯or even ¯I write sins not tragedies¯. Furthermore, the names were inspired by popular culture, more precisely the books and movies they loved (I think I like them even more since I discovered this). For instance, two songs are a quote by Natalie Portman in Closer (2004), ¯Lying Is The Most Fun You A Girl Can Have Without Taking Her Clothes Off¯ and ¯But It's Better When You Do¯. ¯The Only Difference Between Martydom And Suicide Is Press Coverage¯ is from a Chuck Palahniuk book called Survivor. They also have a not so subtle reference in their last song, ¯Build God, Then We’ll Talk¯, to the Sound Of Music song “My Favourite Things”, giving it their own touch:
There are no raindrops on roses,
And girls in white dresses.
It's sleeping with roaches,
And taking best guesses

At the shade of the sheets and before all the stains
And a few more of your least favorite things.
To top it off they are also visually captivating. Their video for ¯I write sins not tragedies¯was not only an ear pleaser but also an eye pleaser as they had a flair for theatricality and vaudeville inspired costumes, which made it better than an average music video. It would also go on to win Video of the Year at the 2006 MTV Video Music Awards. It would also kick start their highly praised circus inspired tour and by the end of 2006 it was clear P!ATD had charmed the world. (Currently the somewhat popularly inspired video for ¯Ready To Go¯ is worth a look.)

 Adding to their credibility on the music scene is the fact that their songs have the potential to have so much meaning on a personal level, and still seem frivolous and fun at the same time. Yet, they do not use cliché lyrics or words and with regard to a theme you can have fun guessing.  Actually for seventeen year olds, when they wrote the album, I was quite impressed with their vocabulary. I am not sure if I could have used the word ‘surreptitious’ quite as well as them at that stage (¯There's A Good Reason These Tables Are Numbered Honey. You Just Haven't Thought Of It Yet¯). Nevertheless, the mainstream media were quick to classify them as emo. However, it still helped catapult them to fame. Also judging by some lyrics (such as below) I do not think they were too bothered about what the world thought or labels for that matter:
¯London Beckoned Songs About Money Written By Machines¯
Panic! Meet the Press
It's time for us to take a chance
It's time for us to take a chance
Panic! Meet the Press
It's time for us to take a chance
It's time for us...

While we're just a wet dream for the webzine,
Make us it
Make us hip
Make us scene
Or Shrug us off your shoulders
Don't approve a single word that we wrote
For their next album it was clear they were somewhat older and they wanted to focus on the music in its basic forms. Pretty Odd did not have the characteristically theatrical sound so many of us had grown to love and they had dropped their exclamation mark. Yet, considering they were so young when the first album was written and Brent Wilson had left, to be replaced by Jon Walker, it should not have come as much of a surprise. Although they had seemed to age beyond their years at this point the music was still fun despite its melancholy undertone. ¯Northern Downpour¯ just seems so heartfelt, ¯Folkin Around¯ is a song I imagine cowboys are having a great party to and ¯She Had The World¯ is just something I can imagine Darcy and Elizabeth from Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice having a dance to (even though this music would definitely have never fitted in that time). Pretty Odd is like a porthole to a world I can escape to when I need to put things into perspective.
                After this album it was very quite around PATD and in 2009 it became known that Ryan Ross and Jon Walker had decided to go their own way. It was rumoured that there were artistic differences between the band members. Luckily Panic! At The Disco is back in 2011 with an exclamation mark. It took two years for the remaining two band members, Brendon Urie and Spencer Smith, to come up with their yet again unique sound and third album Vices and Virtues. As I mentioned before I love that the songs can have meaning on a personal level and that there is so much emotion. You can truly sing it out however you want to ;) My personal favourite when it comes to raw emotion is ¯Lying Is The Most Fun You Can Have Without Taking Your Clothes Off¯:
Is it still me that makes you sweat?
Am I who you think about in bed?
When the lights are dim and your hands are shaking as you're sliding off your dress?
Then think of what you did
And how I hope to God he was worth it.
When the lights are dim and your heart is racing as your fingers touch his skin.
I've got more wit, a better kiss, a hotter touch, a better fuck
Than any boy you'll ever meet, sweetie you had me
Girl I was it, look past the sweat, a better love deserving of
Exchanging body heat in the passenger seat?
No, no, no, you know it will always just be me
If you sing this out loud you actually feel good about yourself not to mention confident. Urie confirmed this and very convincingly emphasized it at a concert in Trix Antwerp on 11 May. He also performed this song much more effectively this time around than at their first concert in Belgium at the AB in Brussels back in their Fever days. ¯Hurricane ¯is another one of those songs. Need I say more:
Are you worth your weight in gold?
Cause you're behind my eyelids when I'm all alone.
Hey stranger, I want ya to catch me like a cold (achoo!).
You and God both got the guns,
And when you shoot I think I'd duck.

I led the revolution in my bedroom
And I set all the zippers free.
We said "No more war! No more clothes!
Give me peace! Oh kiss me!"

Hey! Hey! We are a hurricane!
Drop our anchors in a storm.
If you are having a fight listen to ¯ The Calender¯ which is a beautiful song with my favourite line because it is just so pure and lyrically said: ‘at night your body is a symphony and I’m conducting’. The whole album is rife with great words, tunes and references to popular culture among which Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa is probably the most obvious. This album can truly be to you whatever you want it to be, just listen to ¯Always¯ or ¯Sarah Smiles¯  if you do not believe me. Just listen and you will not be disappointed.  
I wish more people would ‘catch them like a cold’ and appreciate them for the interesting, escapist, motivating and dare I say inspiring music. Surprisingly enough, when it comes to Panic! At The Disco I really will ‘dance to anything’. (and that’s a big thing because I’m not much of a dancer J)

maandag 30 mei 2011

Smells like...


Perfumes are timeless and often shrouded with mystery, allure, confidence, but above all a generous dose of popular culture. Celebrities generally advertise perfumes and are constantly creating their own fragrances, designers up their credibility with a signature scent, perfume adverts have themselves become studied works and the world continues to fall at the perfume industry’s feet. Therefore, it is an appropriate subject for this next article.
       Contrary to what you might have thought I am going to start with the traditional fragrances as they are actually coming back into fashion (I guess fashion has a habit of doing that J.  I am going to leave the early history for what it is though. Nevertheless, in my eyes, when it comes to classic scents, Chanel No.5 is still the mother of all contemporary perfumes with apparently a bottle still being sold every 30 seconds. It was created in 1921 for Coco Chanel by Ernest Beaux. The perfume is said to be inspired by the midnight sun, as well as by lakes and rivers in the Arctic circle which Ernest had visited the year before he created the perfume.  It has notes of Ylang-Ylang, Neroli, Grasse Jasmine, May Rose, Sandalwood and Vanilla. The fragrance has remained the same throughout the years. Marilyn Monroe, very much an icon in popular culture, initially meant the breakthrough for Chanel No 5. Not only through an advertising campaign that would come to set the tone for the Chanel No. 5 advertising campaigns but also thanks to her iconic words: “What do I wear to bed? Why Chanel No. 5 of course”. [1]   Chanel No.5 was further solidified during those years by popular culture artist Andy Warhol who made one of his famous works of art using the perfume as inspiration.





Today I think we are probably all familiar with the impressive Chanel advertising campaign with Nicole Kidman and later also French actress Audrey Tautou (see pictures below). What the perfume radiates has actually given Chanel products (bags, shoes, jewellery) an overall appeal as a timelessly classy and stylish brand.  Other classic scents are among others Dior, Shalimar by Guerlain and L’air du Temps by Nina Ricci. For men classic scents are Bleu or Allure by Chanel, Cool Water by Davidoff, Armani Code or something by Ralph Lauren or Tommy Hilfiger. 



The new generation of women who have to become the target group for these classic perfumes are cleverly seduced at an early age. This is done by creating strong advertising campaigns around  youthful, fun, happy spin-offs of the classic perfumes. Often the respective adverts are very colorful and they seem to radiate life.  The girls featured in these adverts have a natural glow, an overall attractiveness but also sexiness and they nevertheless issue a strong personality. For example Miss Dior Chérie which is currently featuring the intriguing actress Natalie Portman as face of the campaign. What gives it an extra boost is that celebrated director Sofia Coppola, known from among others Lost in Translation (2003) and her dreamy, visually often stunning films, also directed the television advertisements for Miss Dior Cherie.  In a similar way Keira Knightley is the fresh face of the Coco Mademoiselle perfume. Additionally, the deal is sealed with a catchy tune (maybe like perfume puts a finishing touch on an outfit). This is definitely a reason why classic perfumes are making a revival. It seems to me it can lower the threshold when it comes to buying a Chanel No.5 or a J’Adore by Dior later on.
 The television advertising campaigns:
Miss Dior:
Miss Dior Chérie featuring Natalie Portman:
Coco Mademoiselle:

Nevertheless, the perfume industry does not let a season pass by (in Europe summer is nearing) without releasing a fresh batch of perfumes. It seems the new perfumes this season are very much inspired by flowers. Although there are many others, I will only be discussing Marc Jacobs (the talented, influential designer) who has embraced this trend to the full  giving it a twenty first century twist by creating original packaging. The two perfumes I am talking about are Daisy and Oh Lola! (a new perfume to be released in July this year and derived from Lola). It is rumored that it-girl Dakota Fanning will be the face of the new perfume, which sounds promising. When it comes to these perfumes they are described as “refreshing, playful, irresistible and perfect to face the upcoming summer days”. In my eyes he has the ability to create edgy, yet still elegant designs. This is further accentuated by the fact that Marc Jacobs has also made it a must-have accessory. You can actually buy Daisy and Lola rings which are great with almost any outfit and you can slide them open to release solid perfume that you can then apply with your finger. It is most handy and to be honest an ingenious idea which I am fan of.  There is also a pop art version of the Daisy perfume which I thought was quite interesting.
 
               
                To tell you about the upcoming smells it seems the weirder the better J. Three examples pop to mind. It probably will not have passed you by that anything ‘vampire’ is extremely popular at the moment. Of which most of all the HBO serie True Blood and of course the Twilight sensation. This is why it may not be weird to hear that an Italian company has come up with unisex perfumes inspired by our blood types. Then there was the rumour Karl Lagerfeld was working on a perfume inspired by the smell of paper and books. Nevertheless, this has been denied. Yet, we can still rely on Lady Gaga to shake things up as she is also said to be working on a signature fragrance although it seems a very risky smell as the press described it as a perfume that was to smell like blood and semen. Lady Gaga clarified this misconception, "I wanted to extract sort of the feeling and sense of blood and semen from molecular structures, so that's where [the rumors] came from and that is in the perfume but it doesn't smell like that."[2] There are also original names such as Paris Hilton’s perfume ‘Just Me’. The point is somebody tells you you smell good and asks what you’re wearing you can reply it’s just me. I liked that idea J
When it comes to my current personal favourite it is Incredible Me by Escada. It is not the most original design or anything but the smell is great. It is soft with just a whiff of something that spices it up which makes me feel alive and confident.  I also love the slight vanilla undertone. It also helps that I sometimes get complimented that I smell nice. Surprisingly, I also have a favourite when it comes to men’s perfume. I love the Hugo Boss XY  because you can wear it to work and at the same time it has an extra tanginess that almost radiates fun and makes me believe there is more than meets the eye.

What I want to emphasize is that the creators of perfumes use their inspiration to create great fragrances but it is an industry that in the end channels popular culture to make it work. They use famous actors and actresses in their campaigns, directors or famous photographers to design their adverts and keep creating new perfumes inspired by what people are watching, doing or connects them in some way J
(On a personal note: I know this was not my promised Sims article (I probably should not have said that was going to be my next one ;) It is definitely coming soon and feel free to comment!)


[1] http://www.suite101.com/content/icons-chanel-no-5-perfume-a44263